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Honestly, it’s been a great swell. We get a few of these every summer, some bigger than others, some well forecast and crowded, some sneakers that leave just us locals spewing with delight.
This one was well forecast. Surfline recommended people get on a plane and get down here, and whether the crowd was taking their advice or not, it was clear everyone had heard about it. Traffic was heavy.
The winds about 500 miles N of us had hit around 85 knots a couple of days ago – over hurricane strength – and all pointing in our direction. So while this wasn’t the monster swell we had last March 17th 2008, it still had some punch to it. In fact, last night was as good as I’ve seen it since last March – sizey, clean lines roping down the point. By the time we got out at dark, the little local crew sitting on the rocks downing Imperial was pretty much speechless. It gets like that – you can only marvel at extreme perfection so much before you realize that marvelling is just a futile attempt to relive it, bottle it or somehow not let it slip away into the past. I love Costa Rica.
