Candles and the meaning of color:
White: Protection, Peace, Purity, Truth, Healing, and Purification.
Red: Power, Courage, Love, Passion, Energy, Vitality, Luck, Determination, Protection, Strength, and Stimulates Cell Growth and Fertility.
Yellow: Happiness, Intellect, Communication, Willpower, Harmony, Creativity, Charm, Acheivement, Stimulates Nervous System and Calms Anxieties and Stress.
Green: Calming, Restful, Peacfull, Prosperity, Money and Finance, Fertility, Healing, Lowers Blood Pressure, Stimulates cell and tissure Growth and panic attacks.
Turquoise: Tranquillity, Awareness, Creativity, Empathy, Wisdom, Communication, Loyalty, Luck, Friendship, Strengthens Immune System, Calming Nerves, Skin Problems, Good for Inflamation, Athsma and Bronchitis.
Blue: Happiness, Patience, Tranquillity, Forgiveness, Dreams, Harmony, Truth, Justice Karma, Balance, Soothing, Cooling, Helps Headaches, Tooth Aches, Insomina, and Inflamations.
Purple: Sprituality, Awareness, Wisdom, Evolution, Growth, Success, Mediation, Strong Healing, Strengthens Herbal Healing, Good for Inflamation, Athsma, Allergies and Insomina, Migraines, Nervous System, and Skin Problems.
Make your own Pillar Candles
Supplies:
· Molding Candle Wax
· 4.5” x 3” Round Metal Mold
· Jiffy Wicker
· 1/0 square waxed wick or 34-37 flat cotton core waxed wick
· Silicone Spray Mold Release (optional)
· Steamer Pot or old Sauce Pan to create a double boiler
· Standard Size or Small Size Melting Pot with pour spout
· Wood Stir Sticks, chopsticks, or something else to stir the wax
· Thermometer
· Scissors
· A large needle or craft knife
· Candle Fragrance (optional)
· Color Dye Chips (optional)
NOTE: These instructions are written using a 4.5” x 3” round metal mold, which takes about 1 lb of wax and 20” of wick per candle.
Also a good idea to have:
· Paper towels
· Windex (Window cleaner)
· Aluminum Foil
· Newspaper, scrap paper to cover work surfaces
· Fire Extinguisher (just in case)
Prep Your Mold
Inspect your mold to ensure that there is no residual wax on the inside surfaces or seams of your mold. If there is, remove it.
Spray the inside of your mold with Silicone Spray Mold Release. To do this, either follow the directions on the can, or hold the nozzle 8 to 10 inches from your mold and release the spray in short bursts. I little goes a long way with Silicone Spray Mold Release.
Wicking your Mold
The first step in making your pillar candle is to wick your mold. You will need your wick and your Jiffy Wicker to do this.
Take a 20” length of wick, and tie a slip knot at one end.
Thread the unknotted end of the wick through the metal washer, and pull it through until the washer is resting against the knot.
Poke a hole in the center of the rubber gasket with a large needle or craft knife.
Thread the unknotted end of the wick through the rubber gasket, and pull it through until the gasket is resting against the metal washer.
Thread the unknotted end of the wick through the wick hole in the bottom of the mold, and pull up through the center of the mold to the top of the mold.
Keep pulling until gasket end of the wick is snuggly pressed against the bottom of the mold.
The point here is to create a seal between the rubber gasket and the mold, so that liquid wax will not seep out through the bottom of your mold.
Take the metal jiffy wicker bar and thread the wick through it. Pull the wick taut, so that wax cannot seep out, but not so tight that the wick is stretched out of shape or distorted.
Now draw the wick into the notch at one end of the jiffy wicker bar. Wrap the wick once around the bar, then underneath the wick threaded along the length of the wick bar, as shown, to create a solid knot.
Melting your Pillar Candle Wax:
You will need either a steamer pot or deep sauce pan, and you will also need a melting pot with a pouring spout. These two items create a double boiler to melt down your wax.
Fill the bottom part of your double boiler (the steamer pot or the deep sauce pan) with about two inches of cool water, and place on the burner set to high temperature.
Place pieces of 139 degree Molding Candle Wax to be melted into the melting pot with a pouring spout, set the melting pot in the water, and attend to it as the wax liquefies. (When the water begins to boil, turn the heat down to medium low or low.)
If you have a large block of wax and need instructions on how to safely break it into smaller pieces, please visit our section on How To Break Up Wax Blocks
When the wax is entirely liquid (i.e., when there are no solid chunks any longer in the pot) you have successfully melted the wax.
139 degree Molding Candle Wax melts at appx. 139 degrees F. The wax will continue to grow hotter as it remains in the double boiler. The temperature of the wax should get to 190 degrees F.
(Some advanced candle makers will cook the wax at 190 degrees F for 30 minutes to eliminate air trapped in the crystalline structure. To some degree this can reduce the appearance flaws that would naturally appear after the wax is made into a candle. It is up to you whether you would like to perform this added step.)
Adding Dye
After the wax is entirely melted and at about 190 degrees F, add your candle dye, if you are using any. Each of our diamond shaped dye chips colors 1 lb of wax. Use more or less candle dye for lighter or darker colored candles. Drop a dye chip (or part of a dye chip) into the melted wax, and stir until the dye chip is entirely dissolved into the liquid wax.
Adding Fragrance:
The standard ratio for our candle fragrance oils is one ounce of fragrance oil per 1 lb of wax. Use more or less fragrance for lighter or heavier scented candles. Add the candle fragrance to the melted (and colored, if you are making colored candles) wax in the melting pot, and stir thoroughly to get even distribution of the candle fragrance.
Pouring the Candles:
Right after you add the fragrance to the melting pot, it is time to make the first pour of wax into the pillar candle mold.
You need a spouted container to pour pillar candles. You can also use a wood stirring stick or a chopstick for added pouring control to reduce dribbles.
The wax should still be at about 190 degrees F. However, if it has cooled a little, that is fine too. Some folks like to pour their pillar candles after the wax has cooled to around 175 to 185 degrees F.
Pour the wax into the pillar mold, and fill the mold up to half an inch from the top of the mold. Be sure to save some wax for the 2nd pour.
Relief Holes:
After you have poured the wax into the mold, let it sit undisturbed until a thick skin of wax forms over the surface of the candle.
When this skin has formed, use a wood stirring stick or chopstick to poke relief holes in the candle.Make these holes near the wick, and poke through the candle until you reach about ½ inch from the base of the candle. You can make one hole, or several holes. The purpose of these relief holes is to allow the wax to shrink without forming solid bubbles of trapped air inside the finished candle, which might pull the wick off center, distort the shape of the finished candle, and interfere with proper burning of the candle.
When the candle has hardened and cooled to room temperature, it is time to make the 2nd pour of wax, to fill the relief holes and the indentations, caused by shrinkage of the wax, in the center of the candle.
2nd Pour:
The “second pour” is made after the wax in the pillar candle mold has cooled completely. The reason for making a second pour (pouring more wax into the mold after the first pour wax has cooled) is that the wax from the first pour will have shrunk into sink-holes, which you will plainly be able to see around the relief holes you made in the previous step. This is normal in this candle making process, as wax expands when melted and contracts when it cools.
To make the 2nd pour for the pillar candle, re-heat the wax you saved from the first pour in the candle making double boiler. Reheat this wax to about 5 to 10 degrees F hotter than the temperature of your first pour wax.
When it is the proper temperature, pour the wax into your relief holes, and continue pouring until the wax reaches a level just below that of your first pour. Pouring higher than the first pour can cause surface flaws on your finished candle. (But if you make a mistake and pour higher than your first pour, don’t sweat it.)
Setting the Pillar
Now let your pillar candle sit undisturbed until it cools completely. This may take a few hours. As in all candle making you will know that your candle is completely cool when the surface of the mold is cool to the touch, not warm. You will also, most likely, notice the candle separating from the edge of the mold. This is a good sign.
Remove The Candle From the Mold
When your candle has cooled completely, you may remove it from the mold. Attempting to remove the candle before it is completely cooled will result in frustration and, possibly, a marred candle. Look for a little separation of the wax from the edges of the mold. This is a good indicator that your candle is cool enough to remove. Another indication is that the metal mold is cool to the touch (not warm).
To remove the candle from the mold, first, pull on the slip knot on the bottom of the mold beneath the jiffy wicker metal washer and rubber washer. The knot should pull out of the wick. Slip the metal washer and the rubber gasket off of the wick.
Next, untie the wick at the top of the candle from the jiffy wicker bar, and slide the jiffy wicker bar off of the wick.
Now that your candle is free at both ends, turn the mold upside down and gently tug on the wick at the top of the candle.
HINT: If the candle does not come out of the mold, you may want to allow it to cool longer.
Trim the Wick
When your candle is out of the mold, cut the wick at the bottom of the candle off, so that it is flush with the bottom surface of the candle. Trim the wick at the top of the candle to ¼”.
